starvation
or inebriation
its all the same to me
someone told me hemingway thought starving focussed his mind
and im a fat bastard anyway
i couldnt get up on the surf board on thanksgiving
too much beef
it was nice paddling out beyond the breakers at dawn
and watching the sun come up
commuter trains heading to LA
ahhh
a trio of dolphins swam by me on the second morning
pelicans fly by at wave top level
as if on a strafing run
and if you are far enough out
you can sit up on the board like a pro
and never catch a wave
chilling out as it was meant to be done
chilling like it was my job
but for optimum surfing enjoyment i gotta lose like 40 pounds
so ill cut out the booze and most carbs
booze is easy to quit when you are such a legendary and accomplished drinker
im not as thirsty as i used to be anyway
whe bottomless booze pit is filled in
maybe even exercise a bit
starve every other day or so
eat a shitload of greens
and become ready for the next and perhaps final trip west
why wouldnt i want to surf all the time
if im working a crappy job
why not a crappy job in paradise?